I Was Lost on Sable Island
I was lost on Sable Island … Not in the traditional sense of the word, but rather lost in the beauty and wonderment of such a place. On August 21st, 2017 I had the rare privilege to visit this island of mystery. As we flew across the endless Atlantic waves, I hoped and prayed that I would be able to spot some of the famed wild horses of Sable.
To get there one must board a small aircraft called a Britten Norman Islander which seats only 5 people. Knowing we would be landing on a sand beach brought a twinge of nervousness to my heart. But I turned my mind back to the fact that I just might get to see first hand these special horses. I grew up thinking of them as Sable Island Pony’s but they are in fact horses. It’s their smaller size that earned them the pony title.
Since I was a girl I had wanted to visit Sable Island and see these horses that were stranded here hundreds of years ago. Some say they swam ashore from some of the hundreds of wrecks that give Sable its nickname ‘Graveyard of the Atlantic’. Others claim they are descendants of horses stolen from the Acadians during their expulsion in the mid 1700’s. It’s believed that part of their ancestry hails back to Andalusian stock, the famed Spanish horses that kings across Europe rode. Whatever their ancestors, the fact is that they are now truly robust animals having been sculpted by Sables fierce weather. And today I was going to have my first chance to encounter a wild Sable Island Horse.
As I peered down at that long strip of green sandwiched between light caramel colored beaches stretching into the horizon, I wondered at the miraculous circumstances that created this oasis in the middle of the Atlantic. Then wondered even more that wild horses thrived there.
Sable Island in the Distance – From the Pilot’s window
From the Air – Beaches that go on Forever – Where are the Horses?
Trotting Down the Beach in Our Direction
As we watch in awe – He trots right past the plane’s wing
42 Kilometers long – Even from the air Sable seems to go on forever
As our small plane surveys the sandy shoreline, the pilot assessing the potential landing strip on the sandy beach, I spot what looks like a dotted line on the wide beach. My eyes follow the line to the end and I can see that it’s growing … those are wild horse tracks! At the head of the tracks are 3 horses trotting seaward! They look so tiny from way up here, so alone this far from the mainland. It’s truly amazing such a large herd thrives here.
As we come in for a landing, I can see wild horses in the far distance up the beach. As quickly as I could I got out of the plane, hoping against hope that they wouldn’t run away. To my sheer joy, they stared for a moment and then began trotting in our direction. I hadn’t thought that they would be fearless, but living on this protected piece of heaven they know no fear. Their curiosity was bringing them our way. As they drew closer, their muscles rippling, manes tossed by the salt air, I busily snapped picture after picture. These wild horses wandered right up the beach and passed right by us before charging up into the grassy dunes.
Wild Horses Pause Looking our way from Far up the Beach
Hiking into the island wild horses roam the dunes
On the other side of the island a small herd feed and interact around a small freshwater pond with waves crashing on the beach just past them
As the wind tosses his mane this stallion grooms himself
A stallion scents the wind
Standing Sentinel over his herd, his watchful eye hidden beneath tangled mane.
A rare Ipswich sparrow among the island’s tough grassy vegetation. These nest no where else in the world, except on Sable Island.
One of the many seabirds that make Sable their nesting place – A common tern
Peering cautiously past his mom, this foal is curious.
The long flowing manes and tails of Sable’s Wild Horses hint back to their ancestry which includes Spain’s renowned Andalusian’s. Natural selection and Sable’s fierce winters have favored the horses with heavier coats, tails & manes. Watching the horses graze and trot about the dunes and beaches while sea breezes toss their manes I can easily see why that’s one of the memories often shared by those few who have been to Sable.
It’s been said that if God wanted to take a vacation he would go to Sable Island and after walking the natural dunes and scanning the crashing waves and endless beaches sometimes dotted with wild horses, I really think there’s some truth to it. It’s such a special place that some of us charter planes to spend a day walking dunes and beaches among wild horses.
Whenever I sets out to observe nature I carry my Canon Rebel and 150-600 mm Tamron Lens. Sometimes I need the reach that huge lens provides but often I don’t as over the years I’ve honed my skills at approaching wildlife. In the case of Sable’s wild horses, the lens allowed me to stay at a distance which meant I was able to capture them in their natural activities and behavior.
Whether it be Sable’s grassy dunes, the Chic Choc Mountains of the Gaspésie Penninsula of Quebec, the rolling foothills of Yellowstone Wyoming or the Florida Everglades I’m up before sunrise and push myself through the day capturing not only images of wildlife but their attitudes and behavior. I want to know everything I can about my subjects.
Seals play in the green and blue ocean water
A seal watches me curiously
Seals dot the length of Sable Island. There’s a huge population living on and around this oasis in the Atlantic.
Heading playfully back into the waes
We’ve all seen dunes, but on Sable they are so large they dwarf everything. It’s incredible that here 100’s of kilometers offshore waves deposit sand from the ocean and wind sculpts it into artwork sometimes 100 feet high.
Just as wondrous is how the island is ever-changing beneath your very feet … dunes grow one year to disappear another, beaches are cut and built by Atlantic storms, even the ends of the island grow and recede. Like a potter creating on his wheel the island is sculpted by nature.
Wild and Free, a stallion sniffs the sand
On top a dune he watches me as I photograph horses
When I was in my teens, I fell in love with horses. My first horse was Queenie and not a day went by that we didn’t spend time together, riding, grooming or just hanging out at the barn … she and I were best friends.
Very social creatures, two wild horses groom each other
Stallion eyeing me watchfully as I photograph his herd
What stunning photos i have never heard of such a gorgeous island, your photos are so breath taking!! your talent of photography is amazing!! i cannot wait to see your new adventures!
Sable Island has long been on our “Bucket list”. If we don’t get the opportunity to physically go there, we now have a wonderful original titled “Nomads’ to take us there emotionally every single time we look at it. Thank you Jackie for letting us experience wildlife and nature through your eyes. You are indeed a Nova Scotia treasure…not only for your talent but for your heart as well. Judie
beautiful.place. my dad visited the place years ago when he worked at MRMS.in Amherst.
Jackie, these are such wonderful pictures. Your writing captures our emotions and imaginations. Lovely post. You have done an excellent job. xo